We Arrive at the Pacific Ocean

September 2, 2014

September 2, 2014

On September second, after traveling 7,487 miles, Maya and I put our feet in the Pacific Ocean. I don’t know why, but it’s a heady feeling to begin with your feet in the Atlantic Ocean and cross the continent to the Pacific Ocean. The campground we stayed in, Cape Lookout State Park, on the Oregon coast was wonderful. Our campsite was nestled in a pine tree forest just behind the dunes. Cross over  the dunes and there she was, the Ocean – you could hear the waves pounding at night and it was a wonderful sound.

Cliffs at Sonoma Coast

Maya and I exploring a sea stack.

People that know me, know I’m an ocean girl. The house I grew up in was on the Great South Bay of Long Island and summer was all about the ocean. As an adult I fell in love with Acadia National Park and camped there for many years. I was fascinated with the tide pools there and those underwater gardens became a subject for my art work. I was anxious to explore the west coast and see what ocean life there was like.This arch would change color in different light. I kept wondering how the artists Monet would paint it.

Maine has rocky granite shores but they are much older and more rounded and weathered down. The tide pools there are subtle, featuring many different colored algae and seaweed. If you want to see creatures you must sit patiently and wait, they love to hide and only emerge when they think the coast is clear. The Pacific coast seems sharper, more dramatic, in places the cliffs come right to the sea. I love the formations of sea stacks that change with the tide and the light. Monet would have loved the Pacific coast! The tide pools are also very different, in a way more dramatic as well. Giant colorful starfish and green and purple sea anemones along with mussels and kelp dominate the upper parts of the tide pools. As the tide gets lower, spiny urchins and sea cucumbers emerge.

A trio of bright starfish and some anemones.

A trio of bright starfish and some anemones.

Another thing I love about the beach is when I come across random beach art. When someone at the shore has spent the day constructing something from the flotsam and jetsam that has washed ashore. When folks do this they are creating for the fun of it, for the experience – they know their work will wash away but it doesn’t matter. It is art in the purest form and I always stop and delight over it when I find some.

A structure made of driftwood and seaweed.

A structure made of driftwood and seaweed.

On this trip I feel as though I flowed through a path of water to the Pacific Ocean. After leaving Acadia National Park, I went up the Canadian coast and experienced the Atlantic Oceans different moods all the way to Kouchibouguac National park on the Acadian coast of Canada. At my next stop at the town of Riveiere du Loup I finally saw the St. Lawrence seaway – so wide you wouldn’t know it was a river if you didn’t look at the map. I followed the St. Lawrence to Ottawa and encountered it’s tributaries all through southern Canada. At Sault Ste. Marie, I came to Lake Superior and again was impressed by the vastness of this body of water. Traveling to Minnesota I stopped for a night along the Mississippi River. Where I camped the river was small, just beginning the long journey to the Gulf of Mexico. My next stop, in Mandan, North Dakota, I found the Missouri River and camped on it’s banks. It was where Lewis and Clark had wintered so I decided to follow their trail to the Pacific. I camped along the Little Missouri in Theodore Roosevelt National Park and found that they had explored that area as well. In Montana I picked the trail up again in Missoula. They fished for Salmon on the Lochsa River in Idaho and took the Clearwater River to the Columbia River so I followed their trail to Celilo Village in Oregon where the salmon were running upstream and everyone was fishing if they weren’t windsailing! I would have loved to visit Fort Clatsop State Park where the Columbia river runs into the ocean but at that point in my trip I needed to head south so I broke from their trail and finally met the Pacific in Cape Lookout, Oregon.

Cape Lookout Oregon

Cape Lookout Oregon

I stayed in two state parks along the ocean in Oregon, and both where excellent. The second one, Sunset Bay State Park, had great interpretive programs, a botanical garden and a bay with a beach where you could safely kayak. Another thing I loved about the Oregon state parks was that they were much more dog friendly than in California. There were areas where dogs could go if leashed but also places where your dog could be leash free and run and enjoy the beach. I want to come back and experience some more of Oregon’s state parks.

The Japanese Garden

The Japanese Garden

I can't remember the real name for this flower but I always called it the "Hot Poker Plant".

I can’t remember the real name for this flower but I always called it the “Hot Poker Plant”.

My little rig on the beach!

My little rig on the beach!

 

 

Along the California coast I stayed in several State Parks, Sonoma beach was beautiful but difficult to enjoy since dogs were not allowed (even leashed) in most areas. I loved the Juniper trees, the way their branches would come out at sharp geometric angles. Many places had this beautiful pink lily blooming and Ice Plants covered much of the dunes. My favorite beach in California was Pismo beach. It has been on my bucket list for years to tow a trailer out to the beach and stay right on the ocean. The area is mainly for people with dune buggies and ATVs but that really didn’t bother me – the beach had a sense of fun. My son was with me and he rented an ATV while Maya and I walked the beach and enjoyed the water.

Soon I have to turn away from the ocean and head back East so I can be home for Thanksgiving but I have a feeling I will be back again.

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Celilo Park, Oregon

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I left my small piece of Paradise on Wednesday. I was planning ahead because I knew that Labor Day Weekend was coming up and I wanted to find a place to camp for the whole weekend. It was a bright, beautiful day, about 65 degrees when I said goodbye to everyone. I didn’t think I would find such a friendly place again soon.

As I headed west the day grew very warm, 89 degrees in Kooskia, Idaho, 94 degrees when I hit the Oregon border. I wanted to camp on the Columbia river, I have been following the Lewis and Clark trail and felt that this would be a good last stop before heading to the coast. In the late afternoon I arrived at the Columbia River and started searching campsites and RV parks to find a place to stay, no one had any openings. It started to get late and I was feeling desperate, I asked the camp host at an RV park called Peach Beach if he knew of any place in the area I might find a campsite for the long weekend. He suggested Celilo Park and gave me directions.

I found Celilo Park, drove wearily in and found a large parking lot with a number of RV’s set up in the lot. There was a beautiful lawn dotted with trees and tents and we were right next to the Columbia River. I still wasn’t sure if this was a “real” camping spot so I drove to the end of the lot and asked a couple if you were allowed to camp here and how much was it? The answer was yes, for 14 days and it was free – there were flush toilets and water, no showers. The couple invited me to pull in right next to them. When folks saw I was having trouble backing up a man named Wayne immediately offered to do it for me; I was so tired I handed the wheel over to him – Maya is now used to strange men getting in and backing up the trailer.

The people were so friendly! The couple to the left – Debbie and John were also retired and full time RVers. The family on my right were also full timers. Their son Tim who was about 13 helped me get all set up. Wayne gave me directions to the next town over, Dalles, where I could get groceries. Celilo Park had a feeling of community about it.

John, Wayne and Debbie

John, Wayne and Debbie

Jimmy playing with Wayne's dog Jake.

Jimmy playing with Wayne’s dog Jake.

Jake and Maya, new best friends!

Jake and Maya, new best friends!

This park along the Columbia river was beautiful in a very different way from the one I had just left in Idaho. One great difference was the sounds; in Idaho all you heard was the river and a few squirrels – in Celilo Park there was the sound of traffic from the highway and the freight trains that came barreling through a dozen times a day (and night). It was a taste of urban camping. The people were just as nice and although we were strangers on Wednesday by next Tuesday when it was time to go, I felt like it was when the Fellowship of the Ring was broken! We had shared many meals together, pooling our food, and shared stories of our lives. In many ways all of us there were travelers, no one was on vacation – some of us had chosen the mobile life while others had not but they were doing the best they could. I gained a new perspective on homelessness and a new respect for people who find themselves in that situation.

The Columbia in the evening light.

The Columbia in the evening light.

The landscape was stunning, in the evening light the hills looked like rounded curves in a body. It was as if mother earth would rise up and shake herself from sleep any moment. The river itself had many moods,the colors ranged from gray to blue to turquoise and green.  It was often very windy and whitecaps would form. When that happened the windsurfers came out in force, swiftly riding the waves and wind. One morning when the river was calm I was finally able to get the kayak out for awhile before the wind picked up. It was exhilarating paddling on the mighty Columbia River! The salmon were running so there were a lot of boats with fisherman out. John and Wayne tried it out and both liked the experience.

Curving hills

Curving hills

Riding with the waves.

Riding with the waves.

Windsurfers!

Windsurfers!

View looking towards, The Dalles, you can see the train tracks right along the edge.

View looking towards, The Dalles, you can see the train tracks right along the edge.

An unusual rainy day.

An unusual rainy day.

My cousins Beth and Ed.

My cousins Beth and Ed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One afternoon I drove to Portland and met two cousins that I never knew existed until a year or so ago. We had lunch at a great outdoor cafe and shared photos of grandparents, aunts and uncles. Lately life seems to have so many new adventures and surprises, I look forward to every day!

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A Small Piece of Paradise

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Although I don’t have an exact itinerary before I leave I usually look at the map and pick a few campgrounds out along the way – the farthest one being how many miles I would like to accomplish. I know I could use my GPS or google maps to find out exactly how long the trip would take but that would take out all of the adventure. By using this method of travel I stumbled upon my small piece of paradise.

I am still following the Lewis and Clark trail, drove along Flathead lake which was gorgeous country, through Missoula and into Idaho. I entered the mountains of Clearwater National Forest in the late afternoon. The road through the mountain pass was twisty with lots of animal crossing signs – a place you really don’t want to be at dusk. After checking my map I realized this type of road was going to continue for another 70 miles, but there were several National Forest campgrounds along the way so I decided to camp in one.

The campground I choose was Whitehouse,  I pulled in and I realized all the sites were along the Lochsa River. As I drove through a man waved me down, “Hi”, he said, “are you really from New York? I grew up in Buffalo.” It was like he had met a long lost friend. He told me where I could purchase wood and some groceries and we had a nice chat about New York. As I tried to back into my campsite (not my strong point if you remember from my previous post) another couple walked by and helped guide me in. Their names were Emerald and Elata, we also had spoke for a while, later I would find that Emerald and I had something in common, we are both artists.

My campsite under the cedars.

My campsite under the cedars.

My own personal pond along the Lochsa river.

My own personal pond along the Lochsa river.

The next morning I met another couple, Alison and Alex who are from just North of San Francisco and camp here every year. They asked if I had been to the warm springs yet. I had seen a very commercial place about 20 miles up the road and told them that places like that didn’t appeal to me. They told me there was a natural hot springs too, it was less than five miles from here. They described how to find the trailhead and then you hike in for a mile and there is a place along a river that has naturally occurring hot springs. I was definitely interested, thinking that this would help my aching back.

The place is right along Route 12 in Idaho, named Jerry Johnson Warm Springs. Maya and I hiked in and it was wonderful! There are several places where the hot water gushes out of the rock; my favorite one had pools that progressively got closer to the stream. The ones closest to the top were hot and as you got closer to the stream they cooled off to warm. If you wanted a shocking cold dip, just get in the stream! It was so beautiful and relaxing, I soaked for almost two hours, trying all the pools. Maya even liked them! Her favorite was the one filled with a fine oozy mud that reeked of sulfur. I decided then and there that I would stay at my campsite another night and come back the next day. While floating in one of the warm pools by the stream a young moose came down to the water to browse for food. It was icing on a cake to be able to see that.

 

The trail to the hot springs begins with this footbridge over the Lochsa River.

The trail to the hot springs begins with this footbridge over the Lochsa River.

One of my favorite pools right next to the river.

One of my favorite pools right next to the river.

This is one of the places the hot water streams out of the earth.

This is one of the places the hot water streams out of the earth.

 

This was one of the hottest pools, above where it is black on the rocks is where the water comes from.

This was one of the hottest pools, above where it is black on the rocks is where the water comes from.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At camp I had several long conversations with Emerald, he carves in wood and makes wood relief sculptures, wood birds and crewel embroidery. He was able to show me a mourning dove he was working on, it was incredibly detailed – each feather was lovingly carved.  Emerald showed me how to sharpen wood carving tools because I have always had problems with that. His wife Elata does beautiful crocheting, if I had time I would have loved to take lessons from her, I only know two stitches. The evening before I left they presented me with a very special gift, wild huckleberries. They had hiked up the mountain that day to pick them. I like them even better that wild blueberries, they are a little more tart.

It’s funny how the Glacier campsite was so different from this small piece of paradise. Everyone here was so friendly without being overbearing. When someone went home and left a big pile of wood by their campsite two different people stopped to tell me about it because they knew I was looking for wood. I related more to Clearwater forest, it seemed more intimate rather than cold and imposing like Glacier. Just goes to show you, you can find paradise in the most unlikely places.

This pool was Maya's favorite spot.

Look closely, there's the moose!

Look closely, there’s the moose!

 

Emerald and Elata with fresh huckleberries!

Emerald and Elata with fresh huckleberries!

Allison and Alex, my hot spring buddies!

Allison and Alex, my hot spring buddies!

Maya pretending she's a salmon going upstream.

Maya pretending she’s a salmon going upstream.

The pump where we get water, I wonder how many young people know how to operate this?

The pump where we get water, I wonder how many young people know how to operate this?

Many of the trees have moss hanging from their branches.

Many of the trees have moss hanging from their branches.

There was a recent fire in this forest and many of the trees had been badly burned.

There was a recent fire in this forest and many of the trees had been badly burned.

Someone took charcoal and drew a sketch on this tree trunk.

Someone took charcoal and drew a sketch on this tree trunk.

Posted in mountains, Rivers | 5 Comments

My Life on the Road, So Far…

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I’m coming up on my two month anniversary of being without an address and can report that so far I love it! I have had my moments of thinking, “Good grief, what have I done?’ but all in all it’s been a great experience. It took a while to adapt and develop a rhythm of traveling, to somehow synchronize myself to the road but I think I’ve got it now.

Maya has learned about this traveling life too. I watched her carefully in the beginning because I know she didn’t sign up for this adventure. In the back of my mind I always felt that if she was too stressed about traveling I would bring her home to my son Jack. Although I have noticed changes in her they are not bad ones just adaptations. One example is her protectiveness of the campsite, she really wasn’t a very protective dog before but now she is. She is very aware of people passing and will bark or growl if something isn’t right. She has her own language of sounds which I am learning. Maya likes adventures so a day of hanging around the campsite while I’m painting or working on something frustrates her. She will huff and whine at me all day.

Traveling days; when we move from one place to another are always busy and tiring. I sometimes wish I had bought a small closed in trailer instead of a pop-up camper. Taking down and putting up the camper is quite a process, although I’ve gotten much better at it, (and quicker) it still takes several hours to pack up and about and hour and a half to set up at the other end. A small camping trailer would have been simpler but I always felt closed in and cramped when I looked at them. The pop-up has lots of windows so you always have a feeling of being outside in nature.

 

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The kitchen area, I have a sink with running water and a little refrigerator that runs on propane. The drawers have all my art supplies.

Our little home.

Our little home.

My little Subaru posing for a photo!

My little Subaru posing for a photo!

Traveling solo is not new to me but there were still obstacles I had to overcome. Backing the trailer up or hooking it up alone is always a crap shoot! I have to hop out of the car more than a dozen times to make sure my position it correct. Usually I have no one to yell, “STOP”, before I hit whatever is behind me. At one campground I knocked the pole that said the site number down. I gladly accept help when people offer!

Campers were designed for families not single travelers so there are other problems to puzzle out. When it’s time to crank my camper down I have to swing the door up and latch it to the ceiling of the camper. It’s a tricky operation which requires one to hold the door steady in an upright position while you climb up on the couch. Every time I got on the couch the flaps of canvas would get in the door’s way and I couldn’t latch it to the roof, since I didn’t have anyone to come and move the canvass I would have to repeat the process – usually several times. I finally figured out I could use my bulldog clips that hold my drawing paper to the board to hold back the canvas. Now I can put the door up without breaking a sweat!

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Maya checking out the solar panel.

I cook outdoors so the inside of the camper doesn't get saturated with cooking smells.

I cook outdoors so the inside of the camper doesn’t get saturated with cooking smells.

I use a solar panel to recharge the camper’s battery so it’s always fun to try and get the panel oriented in the right direction. We can usually see where the sun is setting so I use the compass on my iPhone to find the directions so I can get it somewhat right.

Every place has dozens of different variables; weather, terrain, rules, campground set-up, and amenities so you have to be adaptable and prepared. Most National Parks and many beautiful and inexpensive National Forest campgrounds don’t have showers, so you have to figure out some other way to get clean. Being prepared for rain is important, my little camper doesn’t leak and it’s fine to stay inside to draw and paint but I have good rain gear so Maya and I can still get out for walks and not go stir crazy. I have a small heater for very cold days and wear layers of clothing. I don’t mind cold nights because I have a warm and cozy sleeping bag.

People have asked me if I get lonely and I can honestly say not once during this trip. I think it is easier to travel these days with cell phones and the internet. I still feel very much a part of friends and families lives. I have Maya and of course she is great company! What I do feel often is when I see a special place or thing I will think – “I wish so and so could see this!” Which is part of the reason I began this blog in the first place!

Glacier National Park

Maybe it was the terrible weather or maybe it was the daunting size of the landscape but Glacier National Park didn’t inspire me to write anything about it. I’ve included some photographs in this gallery because the scenery was stunning, some things are better without words.

 

Posted in Lakes, Rockies | 8 Comments

The Badlands, A Different Perspective

Fragrant sagebrush creates a lush foreground for the buttes.

Fragrant sagebrush creates a lush foreground for the buttes.

When traveling through the west one encounters many places that carry the name, The Badlands. There are badlands in South Dakota, Montana and North Dakota – and there may be some I’m missing. The one I recently visited was in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, in the western corner of North Dakota.

Badlands – It’s a macho name, one conjures up visions of outlaws hiding in the gulch, skulls strewn about and no water in sight. Although I don’t know specifically how these places came by the name, several national park sites say the Sioux people called it the badlands as did French fur traders. I imagine the pioneers who were looking for rich farmland would also have felt this was not an optimum place to settle, but it’s all a matter of perspective. If I could re-name the badlands of North Dakota I would give them a much different name.

The landscape is unique, when one first arrives it feels like maybe you are on a different planet. The hills are so oddly shaped, folded and wrinkled in on themselves. I think of the sand castles I used to make as a kid on Jones Beach – you would take very wet sand and let it dribble through your hand to make wobbly, lacy towers. This place is filled with those towers only on a giant’s scale. As you travel through the land you feel as if someone with creativity and great sense of humor sculpted this place. You see all sorts of stone creatures and rock gardens, villas and mushroom plots in beautiful earth colors. Then you turn a corner, enter a valley and come upon a place with lush green hills, perfect for a hobbit hole.

There is a riot of wildflowers everywhere and you can smell the rich, clean scent of sage. Cottonwoods and juniper trees line the river banks and pine forests are tucked in secret crannies.

Many creatures large and small live here as well. Where else can you have buffalo join you for coffee, or watch a family of prairie dogs discuss ways to outsmart old Mr. Coyote? In this land you can see majestic wild horses, shy mule deer and energetic antelope flying over the prairie. During the buffalo rutting season you will hear their deep grunting moan which sounds as loud as a lion when they roar. It goes on all night and you lay there and wonder if maybe you took a wrong turn and are in Kenya. On gentler evenings a soft hoot from an owl will remind you too look up at the thousands of stars across the prairie sky. If I could re-name the badlands I would call it a whimsical wonderland, but that is just a crazy artist’s perspective.

Posted in Prairie | 12 Comments

On-The-Slant-Village, Fort Abraham Lincoln, North Dakota

Mandan Earth Lodges on the Missouri River

Mandan Earth Lodges on the Missouri River

One of the main attractions at Fort Abraham Lincoln is a reconstructed Mandan village. Between 1550 and 1780 (dates are approximate) there was a Native American village on this site. It has a proud but sad history and experiencing the reconstructed village caused me to think about the many ways Europeans ravaged this country.

When Louis and Clark came up the Missouri river they camped at this spot and wrote about it. The village had already been abandoned because a smallpox epidemic had wiped out three-quarters of the tribe. The people who were left went upriver to join another tribe who had experienced the same devastation.

Archeologists have worked at this site to study the Mandan people who had  a thriving culture. They managed to survive the harsh North Dakota winters by building round earth lodges. The construction of these buildings is amazing. They used huge cottonwood trees, which grow by the river, for supporting beams. Then the lodges are covered with grasses and finally sealed with river mud. The walls were about two feet thick. Cool in the summer and warm in the winter these lodges are an architectural delight. I loved the strong lines that are formed by the lodge construction and the way the light comes through the smoke hole. Each lodge even had a foyer to keep the cold air out when someone was entering.

The Mandan people were wise about where they placed their village. They built on a high hill above the floodplain of the Missouri River. The river was in front, two large ditches ran on either side and a tall palisade wall to the back protected the village from attacks.

The Mandan were farmers who used the rich soil of the river bottoms to grow the three sisters; corn, beans, squash and tobacco. They had 13 different varieties of corn including pop-corn. They hunted and fished – all was dried or salted and put in bell shaped caches (like farm root cellars) that were dug in the ground inside the lodges. They also used their crops to trade with the plains people who didn’t grow food.

The site I visited once had over a hundred lodges in the village. They did not survive to the present but North Dakota State Park commission worked with surviving Mandans to reconstruct five lodges as close as possible to what they were like in the 1700’s. Four of the lodges resemble the family homes and one is a larger tribal lodge for meetings and special events.

After the tour was over I asked permission to sit alone in the great tribal lodge. I marveled over the construction and enjoyed the light streaming through the smoke hole in the roof. The place was special – it gave me a very peaceful feeling, a feeling of being rooted to the earth. There were dozens of barn swallows swooping in and out of the lodge. I watched their graceful moves and wondered if maybe they were the spirits of the people who once lived by this majestic river.

Posted in Uncategorized | 6 Comments

Listen…

When I began this journey I brought all kinds of entertainment with me; audio books, music of every type, movies to watch on the computer. The only thing I find I’m using is the audio books when I’m driving. Whenever I’m at camp I find I’m always listening.

Every place has it’s own symphony. Morning music, day music, the special sounds of dusk and the secret sounds of the night. At Acadia during the tropical storm our senses were bombarded with the rain drumming on the roof. The first night at Lake Superior the waves crashing against the shore was the only sound we heard.

Other times it is a mixture, wind rustling through the cotton woods, mourning doves chime in, chitter of different types of songbirds and occasionally geese overhead. Listening to brooks and waterfalls at Chutes campground as the lodgepole pines groan in the wind. Seabirds, wind and gentle waves in Nova Scotia. In Minnesota we listened to wolves and loons sing their haunting tune under the stars.

I heard a new sound today of cicadas in the trees, now I know it’s August for sure and the summer is halfway over.

I don’t know whether I have become more aware of sounds because I’m traveling alone and more alert and wary or if is just because I’m outside most of the time. I noticed Maya has learned the sound of the crank that raises the camper. Someone else was cranking up their camper and she ran to see if it was ours. She knows that sound means a move for us.

We are camped next to a river now and most of the time it makes very subtle sounds; the plop of a fisherman’s lure, the swish of a fish,

Shhh, I’m listening…

Paddling a kayak at dusk is a good time to listen.

Paddling a kayak at dusk is a good time to listen.

Posted in Rivers | 7 Comments

Lake Superior Smiles

Maya and I at one of the many waterfalls.

Maya and I at one of the many waterfalls.

After three days of the most interesting and changeable weather I have ever experienced, the sun began to shine. The lake that was so wild and wooly became gentle.

Not sure how long this weather would last I took the boat ride to see the famous pictured rocks. These are sandstone cliffs abandoned by the glaciers when they receded. They are colored by minerals in the groundwater that seeps through the cliffs. Erosion by ice and waves of Lake superior cause the unusual formations. It was wonderful being out on the boat and the cliffs were stunning! Originally I wanted to kayak to see them (there were many Kayaks out) but I have the wrong type of kayak for the power of this lake. They warn that squalls can come up quickly and there are many places where the cliffs are so sheer that it would be impossible to escape from the storm. I observed that on the boat trip and was glad I took the easy way out, am I getting old?

The area is also famous for it’s many waterfalls which Maya and I explored thoroughly. We found a dog beach too, which was surprising because the national parks normally prohibit dogs from just about everywhere. On the edge of the dog beach we found another surprise, a huge patch of wild blueberries! I sat in the warm sand and stuffed myself with blueberries until Maya grew bored and we had to move on.

Our good weather held out for three whole days, on Sunday we head towards the Dakotas. I was fortunate to know Lake Superior in many of her moods.

Posted in Lakes | Tagged , , , , , | 9 Comments

A Wild Place!

Lake Superior

Lake Superior

After a very pleasant drive through Ontario I was excited to get back to the United States. Of course, because I was so excited I managed to get on the slowest custom line out of five choices. Every line was streaming through but my line, I thought about changing but then worried it would look suspicious. The hold up was a very earnest and thorough custom agent. All my papers were in order but as soon as she saw Maya she wanted to know about dog food. Did I buy any in Canada? I had purchased a couple of cans in a Walmart so I said, “yes”. She needed to see them – well I had thrown them in the back of the car under all my shoes (Thank God they weren’t packed in the camper!). She needed to see them but I couldn’t reach so she had me hold Maya while she rooted around in my smelly shoes searching for the dog food. She finally found them and they were O.K., apparently you can’t bring dog food into the US that contains goat meat. Glad I was in compliance. I waved goodbye and re-entered my country.

The sky was stormy so I made a pit stop at the grocery store since Maya could wait in the car. (I can’t leave her in there when it’s hot and sunny). With all my supplies I headed to Grand Marais, Michigan, since my Tom Tom didn’t know where Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore was. My relationship with this device is strained, but that is for another post.

Finally we find Grand Marais and Lake Superior. The wind is really blowing now! I see the temperature has dropped from 72 degrees on the mainland to 55 degrees. After I find the road to the lakeshore we search for a camping spot, it’s first come first served. The first place I go to, 12 Mile Beach has none available. These sites are right on the beach and I see everyone with their winter coats, hats and mittens on! Maybe right on the beach isn’t such a good idea anyway.

At Hurricane River we find a nice spot, not on the beach but a two minute walk from it. It’s sheltered a little from the wind. There are bears in the area so we will have to go into bear protocol. All our food must stay in the car and we eat off paper plates so we don’t make to much dishwater. The dishwater also attracts animals so it has to be lugged to the vault toilets and dumped. This place is known as primitive camping, no showers, no flush toilets but hey, it is only seven dollars a night!

After backing the camper into the site, Maya and I immediately go and check out the beach. The trees are swaying back and forth, It’s now 50 degrees and the windchill probably makes it much colder. Big breakers are rolling in; now I’ve just driven up the Atlantic coast and never saw waves like this. The air is fresh and cold, it feels wonderful to breathe. The sound of the trees in the wind and the crashing of the surf is exhilarating. Maya is crazed, she is so excited she is running, jumping, twisting in the air and playing tag with the waves. Finally she runs into the surf and so do I, we are celebrating this wild and wonderful place.

Another view of the beach.

Another view of the beach.

Sunset

Sunset

The next day the wind stopped and the fog rolled in. The harbor at Grand Marais.

The next day the wind stopped and the fog rolled in. The harbor at Grand Marais.

Fogged in.

Fogged in.

Gulls waiting for the storm.

Gulls waiting for the storm.

Hurricane River joins with Lake Superior here.

Hurricane River joins with Lake Superior here.

Posted in Lakes | 8 Comments

Hopping Across Canada

The river is so wide at this part.

The river is so wide at this part.

Canada is a beautiful country but the price of gas is hard to take, especially if you are towing. The parks and campgrounds are also a great deal more expensive than the United States although they offer more services such as free hot showers and laundry. Since my new status as “retiree” has come to pass I realized I was way over budget and decided to push on quickly toward Michigan.

 

Maya and I on the shore of the St. Lawrence River.

Maya and I on the shore of the St. Lawrence River.

I stopped at a cute RV park in Riviere du Loup, it was right next to a horse farm and each morning I was awakened by the soft sounds of horses nickering to each other. We went down to the city to see the St. Lawrence River. It’s huge at this point, hard to tell it’s a river since the mountains on the other side were so distant. It smelled like the sea, salty and clean, and where the Riviere du Loup flowed into it you could watch the colors of the two different rivers mixing.

IMG_2047

My neighbors.

My neighbors.

The ferry finally departs.

The ferry finally departs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next stop was Ottawa, where we stayed in a cheap hotel in a very questionable part of town. Maya hated the hotel and was so happy when we got to our next destination and were back in the woods.

Samuel de Champlain Provincial Park outside of Massey, Ontario was beautiful. We stayed two days and I would have like to stay longer but the park was filled because there was a big festival in town that weekend. The park had a combination of lakes and rivers – good kayaking! There was also a part where you could tube down the rapids which I would have tried if we stayed longer. There was also a dog beach!

 

Our last stop in Canada was a wonderful provincial park called Chutes. The park is placed in a huge stand of lodgepole pines that grow alone a river. At one point there is a waterfall before the river continues on it’s way. The park got it’s name from the logging chutes that used to be there. There was another dog beach where Maya and I played in the water, which was cool but not freezing. It was fun getting into the current of the river and riding it down a ways. Maya liked to swim against the current like one of those —- pools, when she wasn’t hunting water bugs!

I thank the Canadians for their hospitality, I enjoyed my visit. Now it is time to return to the US, we are going to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Michigan.

Lodge Pole Pines dwarfed our little camper.

Lodge Pole Pines dwarfed our little camper.

Good bye Canada.

Good bye Canada.

Just a beautiful, peaceful place!

Just a beautiful, peaceful place!

Maya hunting, but I'm not sure what!

Maya hunting, but I’m not sure what!

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